By Drizzie June 12, 2018
Qantas的前首席音信官Jamila 戈登创设了一家名称叫Lumchain的厂商，意在利用区块链使食物分娩极度透亮。该公司的靶子是特意解决正式奴隶劳动的五洲难点，美赞臣(Meadjohnson卡塔尔(英语：State of Qatar)和嘉吉等巨头被起诉在个中游供应链中使用可可和花生油供应奴隶。遵照二零一两年二月一日的财务批评报告，从Main Sequence Ventures筹集了350万美元的种子资金。
During the dissemination of sustainable fashion in the past 10 years, China, a key player in global fashion, is almost completely absent.
In recent years, sustainable fashion has become one of the major trends in the apparel industry. The concept originated from the introduction and prevalence of sustainable development in the discussion of global economic issues. It was introduced into the fashion discourse system and triggers people to discuss the future of clothing, a high-energy-consuming and labor-intensive industry.
With the awakening of consumers around the world, brands that have begun to adapt to this trend are increasing. Guccis parent company Kering Group has issued the 2025 plan for sustainable development. LVMH, the world's largest luxury group, is also conducting studies on sustainable development with institutions such as Central Saint Martins and signing relevant commitment agreements on energy saving and emission reduction. Fast fashion brands, represented by HM, began to recycle old clothes and launch conscious collections to be a part in sustainable fashion.
In 2009, the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, known as the Davos Forum for Fashion, was held for the first time, when decision-makers and opinion leaders of the global fashion industry were invited to focus on fashion-related environmental, social and ethical issues.
Since its establishment, the summit has focused on the discussion of macro issues of the industry and major players in the market. Thus from that time on, the summit is considered to be the focal point for authoritative opinions on sustainable fashion issues and is also the main driver of sustainable fashion in the past several years.
Also in 2009, Eco-Age, a sustainable fashion agency founded by Livia Firth, encouraged sustainable design power by hosting the Green Carpet Award. At the same time, Fashion Revolution, a non-profit organization founded after the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh in 2013, has achieved impressive results in urging apparel brands to improve supply chain transparency and labor rights by ways of releasing annual Fashion Transparency Index report.
However, during the dissemination of the concept of sustainable fashion in the past 10 years, China, a key player in global fashion, is almost completely absent.
Over the past 20 years, Chinas role in the global fashion industry has gradually changed from productivity center to consumption center. Initially, China attracted manufacturing to its southeastern coast by its cheap labor. However, after the period of demographic dividend, China shifted from an apparel manufacturing country to an essential consuming market.
那在某种程度上是未可厚非的;例如比特币 - 须求以货币或代币格局的经济激情来使系统有效。但是，对于追踪音讯和流程，未有真的的鼓劲须要创设到网络中，它能够存在于区块链之外。
According to a report released by Bain in January this year, China's luxury fashion sales in 2017 reached 142 billion RMB, or approximately US$22.07 billion, which is an increase of around 20% from 2016, the largest increase since 2011, exceeding outbound tourism shopping growth. Currently, Chinese consumers account for one-third of global luxury market sales. With the development of Chinas economy, Chinese consumers consume nearly 46% of the worlds luxury goods, of which overseas consumption takes the dominating role, accounting for approximately 77%.
The domestic mainstream opinion is that the Chinese apparel market is still in the prevailing period of consumerism, where consumers willingness to consume is strong, but their awareness of sustainability is not mature enough. And since sustainable fashion is considered to be a reflection of anti-consumerism to a certain extent, it is still too early to promote sustainable fashion. Not only that, from the production point of view, many domestic apparel brands are still in the extensive operating phase, and the requirements for sustainable development exceed their capabilities.
From the perspective of communication, because of the short and rapid developmenttime, Chinese fashion media is also affected by the rapid changes in peoples reading habits. The lack of depth in the dissemination ofcontent and thereliance on celebrity culture renderthe lack of environment for media coverage of sustainable fashion. Therefore,Chinas absence in the international sustainable fashion discussion is also explainable.
Tackling Slave Labour in Food Production with Blockchain
However,the 2018 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, which just concluded on May 16th, seems toindicate a change for China.
Former CIO of Qantas, Jamila Gordon, started a company, Lumchain, that aims to leverage the blockchain to make food production a more transparent process. The company aims to specifically tackle the global issue of slave labor in the industry, where titans like Nestlé and Cargill have been accused of using slaves in their downstream supply chain for cocoa and palm oil. $3.5 million in seed money was raised from Main Sequence Ventures, as reported by Financial Review, July 29, 2019.
Shaway Yeh, Modern Media Group Style Director and the founder of yehyehyeh,once the editor-in-chief of the China's most avant-garde fashionmagazine Modern Weekly, hosted a paneldiscussion on sustainable Chinese fashion at the summit, inviting Dee Poon, CEO of Esquel Group's ChinaRetailing Department, Tana Dai, ExecutiveDeputy General Manager of the Brand Division of the ErdosGroup, and Robby Gu, Vice presidentof investment and innovation of JNBY Group, who arerepresentatives of the three major domesticapparel groups.
Unshackling with Blockchain
Shaway Yeh, the third-yearspeaker at the summit, held the panel talk for thefirst time. In doing so, domestic apparel brands have entered the globalsustainable fashion discourse.
Slave labor has been rampant in the food industry, especially within the cultivation of palm oil and cocoa. Slave labor is used in Indonesia and Malaysia as they are the largest exporters of palm oil, accounting for 85 percent of global production.
In fact, the three domestic apparel groups represent different types of apparel brand operationmodels in China.
Lumachain aims to remove the shackles that bind these slaves using a new type of chain: a blockchain. As someone who was subjected to child labor, Jamila Gordon is well versed with the struggles of involuntary work.
Asone of the largest cotton textile and apparel manufacturers in China, Esquel Group has factories in China, Malaysia, Vietnam, Mauritius and Sri Lanka to supply shirts for high-end brands such as Hugo Boss and TommyHilfiger. Meanwhile, the group has its own brand PYE and Determinant. The production line extends from cotton cultivation to the whole industrial chain of spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing, garment manufacturing, export and retail, and is a typical representative of the current status of China's apparel industry supply chain.
At present, the global market for food software has no established leader. In terms of competitors, there are a blend of legacy companies trying to enter a specialized segment like pharmaceutical or fishery tracking.
Similarly, Erdos, a 30-year-old cashmere brand known to the Chinese people, is also a traditional vertical industry chain group from pastures, sheep breeds, cashmere, and finally to clothing. Currently, it hasfour brands targeting different customer segments, Erdos, Erdos1980, 1436 and Blue Erdos.
Lumchain uses the blockchain to track and trace the origin, location, and condition of individual items in the food chain. Along the way, there is likely to be a geographical screening that allows experts to figure out if something came from a farm or supplier known for their association with illegal slavery.
JNBY Group was established in Hangzhou in 1997. There are five clothing brands under the group, including womenswear JNBY, menswear CROQUIS, children's wear jnby by JNBYand Pommede terre, as well as high-end womenswearless. The group has also extended its reach into the home decoration field and established JNBY HOME.
The company is confident this will reduce waste and improve product recalls as well as audit processes. The fresh food industry is currently one of the least digitized and the most inefficient. Innovation on the frontier of food is not unheard of but rarely, if ever, is a topic that dominates headlines.
Relatively speaking, Esquel Textiles has more connection with the global fashion industry chain and luxury brands, and has accumulated more experience in the global supply chain. The challenge comes from the global sustainable fashion to supply chain production environment, transparency and efficiency.
Using Distributed Technology in Global Industry
Erdos represents the traditional Chinese mass brand and has been branded with a feeling of nostalgia. It focuses on local raw material supply and production processes and has profound experience in the domestic retailing and channel construction. The challenges currently faced come from the upgrading of traditional brands.
A common misconception among people who aren’t in-the-know regarding distributed ledgers is that blockchains are a technological innovation used for finance and economics.
What JNBY represents, on the other hand, is more of a new generation of Chinese apparel brands, with a brand portfolio focusing on the niche markets, putting more weight on product design and marketing, brand image shaping, CRM and other end market strategies.
This holds true to some degree; a blockchain that mimics an economy – like Bitcoin – requires an economic incentive in the form of a currency or token to make the system effective. However, for tracking information and processes, there is no real incentive that needs to be built into the network, it can exist outside the blockchain.
In China's diversified fashion apparel market, brands' differentiating positions indeed have different interpretations of sustainable fashion.